I made it through Tsagaan Sar reasonably unscathed. The Peace Corps training and advice from other volunteers came in handy. I only visited four homes, so I wasn’t overwhelmed. The holiday itself revolves around visiting other people’s houses. It’s kind of a cross between Thanksgiving Day and a pub-crawl time three. Each household prepares the exact same food and goes through the same rituals. In America, people would try to make theirs unique and outdo each other. Here things are very tradition oriented. You go in and greet everyone in the room by holding your arms out palms up below (or above if you’re older) the other person’s. Then, you eat potato salad, some sheep meat, and finally buuz. The whole time you’re also drinking milk tea, berry juice, and rounds of vodka shots. At the end of the visit, you look at photo albums and exchange gifts.
When I went to coworkers houses, the visit was perfunctory. It was just like any other work party. At my girlfriend’s brother’s ger, things were more festive. Oh yeah, I have a girlfriend now. I haven’t really told anyone back home, so this is my coming out post. I was going to tell my brother, but he’d probably blog about it before me. He’s even worse at keeping secrets than I am. We’d make terrible, terrible spies. Not being an incrementalist, I didn’t think it was worth the time to tell people individually. Hope you don’t mind.
Here are some preemptive FAQ answers:
Here name is Naasanjargal
She is 26 and her birthday is February 28th
She works for a judge and plans to be come one herself after getting work experience
We speak mostly in Mongolian so my language and texting has had to improve
We are not married
Peace Corps had a special cross-cultural training session about sex and dating. They went over what Mongolians expect from a relationship with an American. A lot of them expect you to stay or take them home with you. We discussed me leaving in two years and it hasn’t come up again. It’s common for male volunteers to have Mongol girlfriends. It’s less common for female volunteers to have Mongol boyfriends, mostly because young Mongol guys tend to be assholes. That is, except for Enkhee who owns the bar where I met Naasa. Enkhee is awesome.
This post should be the talk of the water cooler tomorrow. Feel free to comment. Here’s one last thing. When I was in grad school at UW, I had a friend named Paul who had taught English in Korea for several years. He had a girlfriend who he stayed with even after he came back to America. I was joking with him once about it and I said he was like a GI with a local girl. When he heard I was joining Peace Corps he said, “just you wait”. Thanks for the heads up Paul.
Friday, February 03, 2006
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7 comments:
Her last name isn't Smith, is it? I know a Naasanjargal Smith - small world.
Also - for the record - I am not bad at keeping secrets. I'm good at keeping secrets, i'd make an excellent spy if I wasn't working for the CIA already.....wait, PRANK CALL, PRANK CALL!!!!
Damnit - there goes my pention.
Good work, John.
So... is she the girl in the picture or what? If not, when are you going to post a pic of her?
WHEN?!
(Obviously, I don't have a whole lot going on these days.)
Very informative and very funny. We really enjoyed this blog. Congrats on the girlfriend and looking forward to hearing more - I don't have to tell you that I like details.
Is the picture from the recent holiday and if so - which one is your girlfriend?
Post or send more photos. Love Mom
I meant pension. I'm not sure what a pention is - it's probably something dirty.
You need to diversify yo' bonds, fool.
Keep running. I could have been in Papua New Gunea.
Dad.
I have to put my hands upwards at every airport check I go to.
Is the ATS Mongolian.
A topic. Speak amongst yourselves
Thanks for labeling the pics.
Nice work John!
I am proud!
John, Thanks for the honorable mention. Little did I know how prophetic those 3 words would be, I mean I was just joking. Your blog is very funny. I got together with Andrea recently in Milwaukee for a brewery tour, good time. I have been extremely busy with the Red Cross especially after last year, I spent about 6 weeks down south after Hurricane Katrina and Rita. What is your email address? I will be heading to Korea in Oct/Sept to prepare for my Wedding in Jan there. Let's get together.
Korea Paul
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